Well, despite my best intentions of making Jeff’s regency coat first, I was compelled to make my own spencer. It went much the same as the dress bodice, since I’d cut out a larger (particularly a higher neckline) version of that same pattern. Having learned about the intended gather under the bust, I instead removed quite a bit of width from the back edge of the front piece. Between that trim and the wider cut of the shoulders, the shoulder seam came out a bit farther than it should. I think that’s also part of why there’s some pull at the center of the bust (though the bottom edge still needed a dart).
I thought I might be able to fix it by throwing in a new seam, but I think it’s going to take entirely re-setting the sleeves at this point. Which I thought I was too lazy to do, but looking at this picture enough might change my mind… As far as the sleeves go, they got left ungathered (though with a fold in back since neither one went on straight).